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How to Treat Damaged Hair (my story)

Kana S.

Damaged hair also damages self-esteem. Here’s my 6-step process for treating damaged hair.

I went from dark black virgin hair to platinum blonde. Over and over again.

And then I ran my straightener over it every day without heat protection. My ends were dead. My hair was falling out. It was untameable, and I felt ugly.

That’s damaged hair for you (bows humbly.) I’m not joking when I say I know what damage looks like as someone who’s dealt with treating a decade-long, self-inflicted hair abuse.

The incredible news I’ve discovered through my hair care journey is that hair has natural resilience and beauty.

Before we start: how hair gets damaged

Self-doubt and insecurities manifesting in heat damage and hair neglect. Or maybe you're a busy person, and you do whatever it takes to get by when it comes to your hair.

Applying heat without heat protectants

Heat damage to your hair occurs from applying high heat (over 300 F) consistently to your hair without heat protectants. Usually with a curling iron, straightener, or hair dryer.

I’ve been flat ironing and straightening my hair with cheap hot tools since middle school, and that has really dried out my hair. 

I learned that having a consistent hair care routine with proper heat protectants has really improved the quality and health of my hair. 

Bleaching and dying black hair

Let’s be clear. To get from dark, black hair to anime blonde, your hair will have to endure some trauma.

By trauma, I mean bleaching black hair requires the use of hydrogen peroxide and other ingredients to strip your hair of its melanin.

Melanin is part of the hair’s structure, and it protects the hair from things like sun damage. 

If you don’t do the dying process correctly, as in going for multiple sessions and slowly getting the melanin out, your hair could result in a lot of breakage. 

It’s important to get the right knowledge on how to dye black hair if you plan to do it at home. If not, you will have to visit a reputable stylist who has experience with Asian hair types

After the dying, having a post-bleach care routine is imperative. If you’re not babying your hair after a bleach process, it will definitely get really damaged. 

Perming and treatments

Consistently getting a straight perm or any kind of perming without proper after care will definitely set you on a path to damaged hair. These treatments can use a lot of heat or chemicals that put a lot of strain on the hair. It can take a lot of effort to manage and maintain hair health afterwards. 

Mental health and hair

Depression and stress can take a toll on hair health in several ways. When you're stressed, the body releases hormones like cortisol that can disrupt the normal hair growth cycle, potentially leading to shedding or thinning over time. Similarly, depression can influence daily habits and self-care, which may result in poorer nutrition, sleep disturbances, and neglect of scalp health, all of which can contribute to hair changes. 

While these effects vary from person to person, recognizing the connection between mood and hair can help you seek holistic approaches—balancing mental well-being with proper hair care—to support healthier hair.

Levels of hair damage

Let's talk about different kinds of hair damage. Identifying the type of damage you're looking to treat helps to find the right techniques and products. 

Mild damage

Quick ways to identify mild damage:

  • Brittle, crunchy hair texture (esp. at the ends)
  • Split-ends

Quick ways to address it: 

Cut off the dead stuff. Even a dusting, as I'd like to call it, allows 5mm- 1cm to be trimmed and allows your hair to access the nutrients better. Otherwise, those dead ends will continue to cause your overall strands to suffer and not have enough nutrients. 

It’s better to cut off the dead stuff instead of applying products that may struggle to cling to the broken ends or are too damaged to have product make a difference.

Moderate to severe damage

Quick ways to identify moderate or severe damage:

  • Irritated scalp
  • Oily and flaky scalp
  • Extensive itchiness and dry scalp
  • Hair fall-out
  • Constant breakage
  • Breaks to the touch

Quick ways to address it:

  • Cut out the damage and regrow
  • Visit a good salon that specializes in Asian hair
  • Use the LOC method 
  • Stop bleaching or dying and let your hair breathe

It’s ok if you’re suffering from severe damage. You’re not alone. If you’re having extensive scalp issues, such as rashes or fall-out, don’t be shy about booking a time with the dermatologist.

TLDR for treating damaged hair

I’ve had damaged hair and it’s taken a lot of trial and error to be able to heal it. I’ve done so much research to finally put together a little guide. 

1.  Ditch the damage

First thing's first: cut out the breakage. A fresh trim is your new best friend—less split ends, less stress.

2. Cleanse with a gentle shampoo  

Say no to harsh shampoos. Switch to gentle, sulfate-free cleansers that won’t strip your hair’s precious moisture. Think of it as a spa day—every single wash.

  • Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Shampoo
  • Briogeo Don't Despair Repair Shampoo
  • OGX Bonding Plex Shampoo

3. Deep condition like a queen  

Mask that mane, girl. Use a deep conditioner or a hair mask packed with moisturizing ingredients like argan oil, shea butter, or keratin. Treat your hair like royalty—because it is.

  • Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Conditioner
  • Briogeo Don't Despair Repair Conditioner
  • Davines OI Hair Butter

4. Seal in the moisture

Seal in that hydration with a leave-in conditioner or nourishing oils—coconut, jojoba, or even that fancy vitamin E oil. Just a few drops go a long way.

  • Tsubaki Hair Oil 
  • Rosemary Treatment Oil

5. Protect from heat

Heat styling? Only if you’re rocking a towel turban or silk bonnet afterward. Use heat protectant spray before blow-drying or straightening—even if you’re just feeling lazy.

  • ALFAPARF Multibalm
  • Oribe Gold Lust Dry Heat Protection Spray 
  • Bumble and Bumble Hairdresser's Invisible Oil

6. Be gentle and patient

No rushing. This is the most important step. 

Gently detangle with a wide-tooth comb, and give your hair time to heal. Remember, beauty doesn’t happen overnight—unless you’re a Hollywood star. 

Even then, true healing takes time.

My personal 6-step damaged hair care routine

Step 1: Shampoo + massage

I start off by making sure my hair is actually wet enough and my scalp is moist. 

I get 2 - 3 pumps (yes, it’s a lot!) into my hands and massage my BOTANIST - Deep Moist Shampoo onto my scalp for 3 minutes, combing through with my Kobako Brush. 

I finish this step by working the rest into my hair.

Step 2: Conditioner

I squeeze out excess water. I split my hair into 2 sections and use 2 - 3 pumps of BOTANIST Deep Moist Conditioner on both sides of my hair, so they each get 2 - 3 pumps of conditioner.

I take my Mason Pearson Wide Tooth Comb and work the product from mid-shaft to ends.

Step 3: Scalp rinse + massage

While the conditioner is in my hair, I apply A’Pieu Raspberry Hair Vinegar Scalp Rinse into my scalp and give it a gentle massage. 

I’ll wash my body or shave as I wait about 3 minutes for the potion to work :)

Step 4: Gently towel dry and comb

After washing my hair out, I gently squeeze (not rub) the excess water out of my hair using my towel. Then I take my Mason Pearson Wide Tooth Comb to detangle my hair.

Step 5: LOC method and Dyson hairdryer

It’s time for the Liquid (water from the shower) - Oil - Cream method, or the LOC method. I get 2 pumps of my Shiseido Sublimic Sheer Airy Flow oil and distribute it throughout my hair. I use both diffuser attachments for my Dyson Supersonic and dry my hair on medium heat and high wind settings.

Step 6: Finishing cream

I always finish off my freshly dried hair with Shu Uemura Overnight Serum, working from the top of my head to the ends, making sure it’s distributed evenly.

My hair needed the right moisture and cleansing techniques to gently wash away pollution, debris, and excess oils while retaining the much needed nutrition for the dryness. 

I learned that my scalp was a key component to overall hair health and getting the right scalp serum would support the growth and production of healthy hair. I started to really lock in and tend to my scalp consistently with the right PH balancing products.

Finally, I stopped using direct heat on my hair. The heat styling was destroying it, and I switched to my Dyson which I swear by. I also now use a thermal protector that’s geared toward my hair type.

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